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What do you do on a rainy day in Andalucia?
If you’re one of the locals you will probably be dancing for
joy in the fields or streets, shouting ‘Agua, agua!’,
such is the desperate shortage of water at the moment. But if you
are a holidaymaker, having come to Spain for some desperately needed
sunshine, what then? Weep? Ask for your money back? Head for a pub
and start drinking way too early, leaving nothing for later on?
We caught a train into Malaga, a city full of character, charm and
countless attractions, whatever the weather. Our destination on this
occasion was the birthplace of Pablo Ruiz Picasso in La Plaza de la
Merced. You could catch a reasonably priced cab from the newly completed,
space age Málaga María Zambrano station, but we decided
to walk, taking about half an hour as we passed through a maze of
fascinating little streets and alleys in the historic part of town.
Usually bright, sunny and colourful, the city had a different mood
this time, with people almost excitedly dodging the puddles as they
clumsily wielded faded, crushed and broken umbrellas without a hint
of skill, quite unlike the practised ease and dexterity of the English
on a very common rainy day in London. With red brake lights from cars
and traffic lights like shards of light in the gloom, we absorbed
the excitement of those around us and laughed as the rain kept chucking
down, naturally finding its way into our shoes and dripping down the
backs of our necks.
Pablo Picasso was born on the 25th October 1881 at 36 Plaza de la
Merced, which is now number 15, its four floors having served as the
central office of the Picasso Foundation since 1988. Pablo’s
parents had rented the first floor of the building and they lived
there until 1884 when they moved to another building in the square,
number 34, which today is number 17. At the time Plaza de la Merced
was one of the meeting places of the 19th Century Bourgeoisie and
despite the inevitable tourist orientation today, it still retains
a special atmosphere, characterised by the magnificent architecture
alongside a backdrop in one corner of the Alcazabar, the Arab fortress,
and the many appealing cafes, bars and restaurants, where bubbling
joviality is mixed with in-depth, more serious conversation.
On the first floor of the historic building you can see a very thought-provoking
display of photographs and a recreated 19th Century sitting room,
with a painting on an easel by Pablo’s father, together with
other paintings by some of his friends and also a collection of some
of the family’s personal objects. Standing there in the impressive
silence, sadly forbidden to use my camera, I felt my imagination slip
into another world.
A very friendly lady in a tourist information booth in one corner
of the square then directed us through the still driving rain to the
nearby Picasso Museum, in front of which was a very long line of very
bedraggled umbrellas, patient excitement on the faces of those waiting
and wonder, awe and respectful appreciation on the faces of those
leaving the colossal building.
And for lunch or a snack, where could be more in tune with the theme
of art than the nearby Dutch run Vino Mio Restaurant in Calle Alamos,
which holds regular art exhibitions by modern artists (see artist
Terry Durham)
and which serves food so beautifully and creatively that the dishes
are in themselves works of art. Say hullo to the owner Helene from
Clive and Sally of beautifulyoo.com, she is sure to make you feel
very welcome.
Don’t despair on a rare rainy day in Malaga, Andalucia! Celebrate,
make the most of it!
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And, if you have
time and energy left, why not visit the following too:
Centro de Arte Contemporaneo de Malaga, Calle Alemania, Malaga - Tel:
952 12 00 55 - www.cacmalaga.org
Museo Interactivo de la Música, Muralla Plaza de la Martina,
Malaga - Tel: 952 210 440 - www.musicaenaccion.com |
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| If you would
like to stay in this lovely part of Andalucia, Spain, we can offer
you a fantastic choice of villas with private pool, apartments, cabanas
and log cabins, cottages, B&B guesthouses and excellent hotels
in inland Andalucia, Spain. Please see our portfolio of Holiday
Rental Accommodation |
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